Fascinating Footsteps

Being brought up in the Highlands, as I was, you can’t help being aware of ‘The Clearances’ and the impact that period of time has had throughout the world.

People who were ‘cleared’ from the land to make way for sheep farms were ‘set adrift on the world’ and made a lasting impression wherever their footsteps fell.

I don’t claim to be an expert on this time – it is for those far more knowledgeable than me to tell the stories of those people.

I was fascinated to hear that Robert Aitken, brought up in Brora and just a year younger than me, was making a film about this era called ‘Last Footsteps of Home’.

Robert Aitken.

Filming took place around Brora and Golspie in the summer of 2015.  I was curious about how a short film could capture the essence of the Clearances.

Many more than me were curious too – proven by the numbers attending screenings throughout the North.  I went along to the Golspie Inn  and was originally in the back row of the audience but by the time the presentation started I was closer to the middle of the crowd.  I’m not sure how many attended but I suspect there were about 80 of us there.

Robert’s passion for film making shone through and his knowledge of the art is evident.

Jacqueline Aitken, Robert’s sister, was the researcher for the film and gave us a snapshot of the history of the time.  Jacqueline eloquently described the events surrounding the Golspie Riot which happened just outside the building we were in on 10th February 1813.  It was a brief and ultimately unsuccessful act of defiance by the tenants of Kildonan Strath who wished to stay in their homes.

The old bridge over Big Burn. Did the Golspie Rioters walk here?

Rallying point for Clan Sutherland.

Big Burn, Golspie.

‘Last Footsteps of Home’ set in 1813 tells us the story of the Kate Macpherson leaving her home in Sutherland for the last time and departing Scotland forever.  It is beautifully filmed and the scenes of Sutherland were instantly recognisable.  Molly O’Brien, who played Kate, captured her vulnerability perfectly but also showed the steely determination of Kate not to let her circumstances define her.

Kate’s ribbon.

The soundtrack, written by Robert, is absolutely perfect.   The pace set by the director made me feel that I had been immersed in Kate’s story for ages, but still it  was over far too soon.

Robert Aitken is at the start of his journey to tell us the story of Kate and others like her and I can’t wait for the next chapter.

• I’ve touched upon the Clearances before in my blog The Forgotten Memorial
• You can keep up to date with Robert’s plans:  https://www.facebook.com/footsteps1813/
• Recommended reading on the Highland Clearances – Set Adrift Upon The World by James Hunter:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0168LE8XY/
• Jacqueline Aitken is the Heritage Officer at Timespan in Helmsdale, an expert at genealogy and an archaeologist.  www.timespan.org

July 8, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Film, Highlands, History, Photography, Scotland Leave a comment

For the Fallen

Today marks the 100th anniversary of the first day of The  Battle of The Somme.

The battle was fought in Northern France over five months and was one of the bloodiest fights of the Great War.  On the first day 19,240 soldiers lost their lives.

I captured this photograph at the Armed Forces Day in Sutherland in June 2015 and felt very honoured and humbled to have witnessed his moment of remembrance.

We must cherish the memory of the men and women who have lost their lives defending our freedom in wars and conflicts throughout history.  Every serviceman and woman who joins up knows that one day they may have to put their lives at risk.   It is our duty to look after them when they no longer serve in the Armed Forces.

The words of this poem by Laurence Binyon resonate as much today as they did when it was first published in The Times on 21st September, 1916.  It is read in Remembrance Services throughout the country.

For me the words that sum up the First World War are written by Wilfred Owen in his famous poem Dulce et Decorum Est.  I first read this at school and I have never forgotten it.

https://www.facebook.com/Friends-of-Clyne-War-Memorial-269727039758378/?fref=ts

http://www.spanglefish.com/golspieheritagesociety/

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/books/what-to-read/remembrance-day-poems/

http://www.poppyscotland.org.uk/

 

July 1, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: History, Photography, Scotland Leave a comment

Stormy Skies

The last day of June 2016.

Political storms in Westminster, Holyrood and Brussels and stormy skies over East Sutherland.

Head towards the Golspie Golf Club and keep going along Littleferry Road.  You’ll pass the entrance to Balblair Woods.  You can read about our adventures there on the blog Lost at Loch Fleet!

Littleferry sits at the edge of Loch Fleet with views across the water to the ruins of Skelbo Castle.  As this area is a National Nature Reserve you can see plenty of wildlife, especially birds.

The Pier at Littleferry.

The boat house and slipway into Loch Fleet.

There used to be a ferry boat operating here and the cottages were home to the ferryman and pilot.  Other buildings in this small settlement were an inn and a store for all the goods brought into the area by boat.

The Battle of Littleferry (also known as the Skirmish at Golspie) took place here during the Jacobite rising in 1746!

More information on the area can be found here:

http://www.discoversutherland.co.uk/lochfleet.php

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Littleferry

 

 

June 30, 2016June 30, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Highlands, History, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland Leave a comment

Lost at Loch Fleet!

A sunny Sunday afternoon was the perfect excuse to head out to Balblair Woods on the Loch Fleet Nature Reserve for a relaxing stroll.

Three hours and several kilometres later we were still ‘strolling’ through the woods!

This is a lovely place to walk.  The paths take you from the Littleferry Road through the woods to nearly the Mound!   There no steep climbs or rough terrain.

The Scottish Wildlife Trust describe this area as “a good example of a large tidal basin with sand dunes, mudflats, coastal heath and pinewoods. The pinewoods support Scottish crossbills, crested tits and pine martens, as well as woodland plants, such as one-flowered wintergreens”.

The Bridge over the burn with views to Dunrobin.

Looking towards the hills behind Kirkton Farm.

Tree canopy.

We stopped at the Birdwatching Hide and looked over the water to wading birds.  Unfortunately they were too far away for my lens to capture but my husband was chuffed to spot a curlew through his binoculars.  Comments left on the white board tell of Osprey sightings!

The woods are full of small birds though and they definitely make their presence known by singing away and hopping around on the paths and in the branches above your heads.  Here’s a couple of photos of the wee birds, not the best quality though.

Keep heading past the bird hide and you’ll come to a fork in the path.  We took the right hand option and walked along a tree lined track.  Eventually we arrived at a tree house or perhaps a viewing platform, not what we expected to find but it’s definitely a man made structure.

The fork in the path, we went right.

Tree house?

This is where we went wrong!  We turned left and set off down this path but we should have kept going straight ahead.  Although the route we took was a lovely walk it petered out and we had to head back the way we came.  It wasn’t too far, I reckon about 30 minutes to the end of the path and back to the tree house.

This fallen tree was quite a big hint that this past was not well used.

On the right track again and we walked towards Loch Fleet and the view across to the Skelbo side of the water.  The outlook was stunning.  I’ve never been to this part of the the woods before but will definitely go back.

This is the first view of Loch Fleet from the path.  Obscured from view is the Mound Bridge.

Looking to the right you can see Kirkton Farm’s green fields.

Turning left at the waters edge gives you a view across the water to Skelbo.

The next part of this walk takes you along the shore line before cutting back through the woods. Keep an eye out for marker poles, although they are quite hard to find!

You’ll come to the fork in the path again and from there it’s about 20 minutes back to the carpark on Littleferry Road.

You can find out more, directions etc here:

http://scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk/reserve/loch-fleet/

or

http://www.nnr-scotland.org.uk/loch-fleet/

 

June 6, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Days Out, Highlands, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland, Wildlife 3 Comments

Sutherland is Springing into Summer

Bluebells in the woods at Dunrobin.

Well, Spring is definitely here and we’re so close to Summer.

It’s fantastic to see all the trees in leaf and wildflowers in bloom.  Over the last two weeks I’ve been out and about with my camera not aiming specifically to photograph flowers but I couldn’t resist them or the tree blossoms.

Here are some photos of the flora of East Sutherland at the moment…..

 

May 29, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Highlands, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland, Spring Leave a comment

Brora Golf Course

Brora Golf Course is stunning!

It hugs the East Sutherland coast heading north from Brora beach towards Kintradwell.

Although I’ve lived here most of my life I have never played a round of golf.  But I can appreciate the beauty of this area and how the course’s original architect, James Braid, and the subsequent greenkeepers have made the course part of the natural links landscape.

Because I was taking shots with a camera and not a club I’m not going to tell you the trickiest hole or the best green but I’m going to show you some superb views.

Setting of for the 14th.

Bridge over the burn.

The Clynelish Burn meeting the North Sea.

Heading out.

The current Brora Golf Club president, Alistair Risk, says:

“2016 marks our (Brora Golf Club’s) 125th Anniversary and Royal Dornoch is celebrating 400 years of recorded golf, two extra special reasons to come golfing in Sutherland.  The course is recognised as probably the best example of the great James Braid’s course designs and certainly the one that has kept to the original vision of the games greatest architect.  Brora hugs the coastline and commands breathtaking mountain and sea views.  Situated just 20 minutes north of Royal Dornoch and an hour from Inverness. Five times Open Champion Peter Thomson rates Brora as ‘the best traditional links course in the world’ while writers and players galore glory in its fabulous setting, its superb condition and the devilish challenges this hidden gem offers. Make sure you include this golfing treat in your Highland Golf Escape.” 

Lots of people were out enjoying the lovely day, most of them were playing the course and gave a cheery hello on their way.  The club does much to encourage younger players and it was in evidence with adult club members taking round the juniors.

Putting on the 12th

A junior member setting up his shot from the 13th tee.

Driving off from the 14th tee

Heavy traffic at the burn.

Natural lawnmowers!

The Golf Pro is Malcolm Murray and club secretary is Tony Gill – for more information on the club give them a call on 01408 621417.

The club’s website can be found at http://www.broragolf.co.uk

For more general information on Brora visit http://www.brora.org.uk

May 25, 2016May 26, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Golf, Highlands, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland, Spring Leave a comment

The Forgotten Memorial

Hidden away in Dunrobin Woods, between Brora and Golspie, is a beautifully built stone and pink granite structure.  No flower wreaths adorn this monument, no pilgrimage is made to pay respects.  Instead it is slowly but surely being concealed by nature.

James Loch, a name synonymous with the Highland Clearances, is remembered in this place.

Dunrobin Woods, between Brora & Golspie.

The overgrown track to Loch’s Memorial.

Loch was born in 1780 into a wealthy Scottish family.  He became a lawyer and, in later life, a politician but ask anyone in the Highlands about him and his role as Estate Commissioner for the Duke and Duchess of Sutherland is how he is remembered.

He is described as ‘not the architect but more the engineer of design and apologist for the Duchess’.

Unfortunately his methods are described as aggressive and cruel ‘so as to mould and control the lives of the ignorant and credulous people’.  So controlling was Loch of those who lived on Sutherland Estates land that young people had to go to his agents for permission to marry.

Loch himself wrote ‘In a few years the character of the whole of this population will be completely changed…  The children of those removed from the hills will lose all recollection of the habits and customs of their fathers’.

Perhaps this is why his memorial is left to rot in the woods but the memories of the Highland Clearances still resonate.

James Loch died in London in 1855.  On the day of his funeral families were evicted from their homes in Kildonan and Tongue.

The grateful Duchess of Sutherland had this memorial erected in Dunrobin Woods in 1858.

Loch’s Memorial surrounded by whin bushes.

The view, obscured by trees.

Nature encroaching.

The inscription, now practically illegible, reads:

TO THE HONOURED MEMORY OF JAMES LOCH WHO LOVED IN THE SERENE EVENING OF HIS LIFE TO LOOK AROUND HERE.

MAY HIS CHILDREN’S CHILDREN GATHER HERE AND THINK OF HIM WHOSE LIFE WAS SPENT IN VIRTUOUS LABOUR FOR THE LAND HE LOVED, FOR THE FRIENDS HE SERVED WHO HAVE RAISED THESE STONES.

In writing this blog, I don’t pretend to be an expert on the Clearances but I do know that what happened during this time had profound and lasting effects on the area where I live.

Soon to be released is a short film by local man, Robert Aitken – The Last Footsteps of Home.  This tells the story of Kate McPherson, a young Highland woman, who was forced from her home in 1813 and boarded an emigrant ship bound for the New World.  More information can be found at

http://www.lastfootstepsofhome.tumblr.com

I gleaned the information on James Loch from http://www.highlandclearances.blogspot.co.uk

The location of the memorial is Ordnance Survey grid ref NC874017

Fallen trees overlay the track to Loch’s Memorial.

May 22, 2016May 23, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Highlands, History, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland, SpringTags: Highland Clearances, Highlands, History, Scotland 2 Comments

Helmsdale

Helmsdale, on the East Coast of Sutherland, is a small, pretty village with a rich history.

When in Helmsdale I would recommend Thyme & Plaice Restaurant for lovely coffee and cakes plus delicious meals featuring local produce.  If Fish n Chips are your thing La Mirage is a must.

The local museum, Timespan, has a varied programme of events & exhibitions throughout the year.

From Helmsdale you can keep heading North on the A9 to Caithness or take a trip up the A897, Kildonan Strath road, to the North coast of the county.

You’ll find out more information on Helmsdale from:

http://www.helmsdale.org/index.html

http://timespan.org.uk/

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/helmsdale/helmsdale/index.html

May 15, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Highlands, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland, Spring Leave a comment

Vikings in Helmsdale: Dale of the Helmet

What a brilliant day!

Storytelling, crafts, battles and banquets – it was all there!  Timespan, in Helmsdale, held a Viking Heritage Day in the village.

Storyteller Tom Muir and his viking lady from Orkney.

Demonstrating Viking wood working techniques.

Enjoying the show!

On a beautiful Spring day on the banks of the River Helmsdale young and old participated in a Viking Battle between Jarls Svein Asleifsson and Olvir Rosta.  The re-enactors trained and led opposing armies to re-live the battle of 1139 in Helmsdale much to the delight and enthusiasm of the participants.

More photos are on my facebook page – Kelpie’s Journey.

You can find out more about Timespan and upcoming events at:

http://timespan.org.uk/

 

May 15, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Days Out, Highlands, History, NorthCoast500, Photography, ScotlandTags: History, vikings Leave a comment

Brora – The Ford

The Ford on the River Brora and the Ford Bridge.

Yes, you can drive through the River Brora!

I’ve done it, holding on to the steering wheel like my life depended on it!  But only in the summer months when the water levels are really low and I made sure my brakes were working afterwards.

My favourite thing about the Ford is the Bridge.  The ‘Bouncy Bridge’ as my younger brother and I used to call it.  The old Bouncy Bridge, from my childhood, was deemed unsafe and replaced several years ago.  The new bridge has still got a bounce but not nearly as good as the original.

The Ford and bridge from the South side of the river.

The bridge on the North side.

From the Ford you can walk along the river bank to Loch Brora or go the other way and walk down river towards the village.

The walk starts on the north side of the bridge.

The path to Loch Brora.

Just a stone’s throw from here are the Dubh Lochs.  I’ve lived in Brora my whole life but only ventured out to find them last year – another reason I love photography.  I’ll probably take you there for a proper visit one day but for now here’s a wee peek!

The Dubh Lochs are near here, the path leaves the track and veers to the left.

The woods on the way there.

And finally (I like reflections, no,  I love reflections!)

I’ve shared a copy of a leaflet produced by Highland Council showing more walks around Brora.

Paths_Around_Brora (1)

May 6, 2016 by kelpiejourney Categories: Days Out, Highlands, NorthCoast500, Photography, Scotland Leave a comment